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Steamy chicken noodle soup is a comforting dish for a chilly day, but commercial versions can vary dramatically. (Getty Images)
Steamy chicken noodle soup is a comforting dish for a chilly day, but commercial versions can vary dramatically. (Getty Images)
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At this time of year, a steaming bowl of chicken noodle soup is an ideal meal. It’s warm, comforting and satisfying on a cold winter evening.

Chicken soup is also touted as a food so healthy, some claim it will cure the common cold. For the record, it’s far too salty to qualify as “healthy” and it’s not exactly a cure, but when it’s made right, chicken soup is nutrient-rich and hydrating, two things the body needs in order to heal — or just feel cozy when it’s chilly out.

Chicken soup is a breeze to make, but too time-intensive to qualify as a fast food. Thankfully, cans, jars and boxes of soup in many variations are easy to find. For this tasting, we stuck with the basics: chicken noodle soup, no frills.

What we learned is that chicken soups not only vary widely on sodium content, they differ dramatically on such details as the amount of chicken in the mix, the ratio of vegetables to noodles and — perhaps most importantly — the flavor of the broth.

The best chicken noodle soup tastes like fresh roasted chicken cooked up with vegetables, herbs and noodles. The flavor of the vegetables shine, and chicken is the star. Bad chicken noodle soup is strangely viscous, odd flavored due to spices and additives and far more salty than it should be.

Here’s the scoop on the most delicious, commercially made chicken noodle soups to keep on hand and those best left on the shelf. Nutrition info refers to 1 cup of soup.

Rao’s Slow Simmered Chicken Noodle

Lots of chicken, carrots, celery and onion in a delicious herby broth make this a welcome slurp. A mere hint of Parmesan pushes this jar of soup to the top. It’s nearly as good as homemade. 120 calories, 4 g fat, 720 mg sodium, 8 g protein. $3.99 on sale for 16 ounces at Raley’s. (4 stars)

365 Organic Chicken Noodle Soup

Pasta fans who like a lot of noodles in their soup will enjoy this tasty spoonful that comes in a box. It has plenty of chicken and a pleasant balance of seasonings. A handful of herbs would make it near perfect. 90 calories, 1.5 g fat, 605 mg sodium, 7.5 g protein. $3.99 for 17 ounces at Whole Foods. (3½ stars)

Campbell’s Home Style Chicken Noodle

The globs of fat floating on top are unfortunate, but oversized hunks of carrot, plenty of herbs, tender cubes of chicken and the vegetable-forward flavor of the broth make this a great choice. 80 calories, 2.5 g fat, 790 mg sodium, 6 g protein. $2.50 on sale for 16.1 ounces at Raley’s. (3½ stars)

Raley’s Chicken Noodle Soup

Lots of carrot and meaty pieces of chicken in a clean, simple broth are a great start. More vegetables and herbs would be an improvement. 90 calories, 2 g fat, 690 mg sodium, 6 g protein. $2.98 for 19 ounces. (3 stars)

Progresso Reduced Sodium Roasted Chicken Noodle

Generous amounts of chicken and flavorful broth make this a fine choice. It’s not a standout, but enjoyable. 90 calories, 2 g fat, 470 mg sodium, 6 g protein. $1.99 for 18.5 ounces at Safeway. (2½ stars)

Zoup Chicken Noodle Soup

This pricey brand that comes in a jar gets it mostly right. The soup is tasty and the salt level works, but the vegetables are overcooked, it has too much turmeric, and an off-putting layer of fat floats to the top. 130 calories, 6 g fat, 650 mg sodium, 8 g protein. $6.49 for 16 ounces at Sprouts Market. (2 stars)

Progresso Traditional Homestyle Chicken

This rustic mix of pasta, chicken and tons of diced carrots is basic to a fault. It’s boring, but will likely please picky eaters. 70 calories, no fat, 640 mg sodium, 5 g protein. $2 for 19 ounces at Raley’s. (2 stars)

Annie’s Organic Chicken Noodle Soup

This soup gets so much right, but it tastes like it was watered down before it went in the can. The result is flat and unsatisfying. 80 calories, 2 g fat, 580 mg sodium, 4 g protein. $4.99 for 14 ounces at Sprouts. (1½ stars)

Kettle & Fire Chicken Noodle Bone Broth Soup

Just add chicken! The list of ingredients, which includes everything from leeks and shiitake mushrooms to organic herbs, is impressive, but it’s like they forgot the main ingredient. The broth is devoid of chicken flavor, and there were exactly two ½-inch pieces of meat in the box. 120 calories, 2.5 g fat, 530 mg sodium, 11 g protein. $4.99 for 16.9 ounces at Sprouts Market. (1½ stars)

Pacific Foods Organic Chicken Noodle Soup

This soup is desperately lacking in flavor. The peas are a nice touch, but not so wonderful floating in water. 80 calories, 1 g fat, 640 mg sodium, 7 g protein. $3.99 for 16.1 ounces at Raley’s. (1 star)

Health Valley Organic Chicken Noodle Soup Low Sodium

Making a nearly salt-free soup is commendable, but this disappointing soup is entirely flavor-free. 80 calories, 1 g fat, 65 mg sodium, 4 g protein. $4.29 for 14.5 ounces. (½ a star, for effort)

Campbell’s Chunky Classic Chicken Noodle

This viscous broth has an overwhelming fake flavor, likely due to soy, spices and so many additives. It’s also far too salty. 120 calories, 3 g fat, 790 mg sodium, 9 g protein. $3.99 for 18.6 ounces at Safeway. (½ a star)

Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at timespickyeater@gmail.com. Read more Taste-off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off.